2022 Tomato Review

For those of you who don’t listen to my radio show on KSFR 101.1 which airs the last day of each month at 10 am, I talk about what problems are in the garden, what we can do, how to deal with certain pests, what we can grow and review crops I grow, etc. Generally, lots of veggie growing tips. This Saturday, Nov 26, I am reviewing my top crops for 2022-all of them. So if you can’t listen this Saturday or want a copy to keep as reference, I am posting my favorite tomatoes for 2022. There are few new ones and some that are on my top 20 list of tomatoes year after year.

I grew 29 tomato plants this year and it was probably the worse year tomato wise (but other crops did well). I think because it was a cool rainy, cloudy season and once the tomatoes set their blossoms into fruit, they like warm, sunny days which we didn’t have many in 2022. However, my cherry tomatoes saved the day and were very prolific but the slicers didn’t grow fast or ripen very fast either. I had a lot of green ones at the end of the season, which I ripened inside. I believe that’s because of the cool weather. Some of my standard slicer that I grow year after year didn’t do so well but I still include them because they have been great till this year. I don’t necessarily stop growing one tomato because of one bad year especially if it has done well in the past.  But it is interesting to note that my peppers did well and they like hot weather too, so go figure.



Paul Robeson-named after the famous opera singer-has superb rich flavor. Get seeds online or at Agua Fria Nursery.
Cherokee Purple-Wonderful flavor. Get at Seed Savers Exchange.
Cherokee Carbon-a hybrid with all the great flavor of Purple Cherokee without the cracks. Get online or at Agua Fria Nursery.
Lucky Cross-A wonderful large bi-color tomato of yellow with a red blush inside- very sweet. Get at Victory Seeds.
Virginia Sweet-Another outstanding large yellow with red blush tomato-can get it online.
Goliath-A medium size red hybrid tomato with old fashion flavor. Almost perfect with few blemishes. Get online. Good eating or I make sauce.
Large Boar Boar-a mahogany color with green stripes-great flavor. Get at Wild Boar Farms.
Black Sea Man-looks and tastes like Black Krim tomatoes only more productive. Really like them. Get them at Seed Savers Exchange.

Black Cherry-A fantastic purple cherry tomato. Get seeds online or plants at nurseries. Agua Fria Nursery.
Ruthje-Red cherry tomato-I grew this last year and it is a super sweet tomato. Get from Restoration Seeds online.
Moby-a dwarf cherry tomato-A large yellow cherry tomato on a small plant with great flavor You can get Moby at Victory Seeds. Only gets about 3-4 feet high so great for pots.
Sungold Cherry-a real favorite-super sweet. Get seeds or plants at nurseries like Agua Fria Nursery.

You notice I mention Agua Fria Nursery here as they have the biggest selection of Heirloom tomato plants in Santa Fe in the spring. Here is my pdf which includes all my crops AND live links for you: 11-2022 VEGETABLE REVIEW


Cold weather to subside this week!

Is it cold enough?!

Recently we have had to endure really cold temperatures both in the day and at night. This morning was 14 degrees at 7 am when I went out to feed the barn animals and with the wind chill (10 mph) pushed it down to 7°degrees F.  I had to wear 3 layers on both my bottoms and top, lined gloves, plus a fleecy headband covered by a wool hat. I looked like a bear with all that on! So I fed in their stalls so they didn’t have to endure the cold wind. I couldn’t wait to get back to the house. It’s been in the teens at night all week. But this coming week, the temperatures will rise into the mid 40’s in the day and nighttime temps will be in the 20’s. Ahh, almost balmy!

But what about the garden? What garden?! Mine has been shut down since we got that first hard freeze in late October. A hard freeze is defined as 28°F or lower. Crops pulled and compost was added on top of the beds.  Everything is turned off drip wise and all drip timers are in the house with their batteries removed. To water the perennial veggies/fruits in winter, I have to hook up a hose and then drain the hose after I’m done so the water drains out and doesn’t freeze in the hose. Nothing worse than a frozen hose. I once had to drag the hose in and throw it in the bathtub in hot water to melt the water in it. I learned a hard lesson there. Now I always drain the hoses. A bit of a pain in the ass but watering is needed if we don’t get any snow. Luckily I didn’t have to water this past week as we got 4 inches here. I water around 1x every 3 weeks in winter unless it snows, and then I’m off the hook. This also goes for established fruit trees in winter or even your perennial bushes.

So what can we do in winter as gardeners?

-Research out new varieties of veggies online that I might try out next season

-Order seeds

-Research problems I had in the garden.

-Order your catalogs or go online.

-Check your supplies and get more if needed.

-Look for specials at our local nurseries and online.

Search for topics on this siteall topics are on the far right side, just scroll down to view under ‘GARDEN TOPICS’. Lot’s of info here on this site for our area.

Support our local radio show this Saturday

Hey folks! This Saturday Oct 8th, is KSFR 101.1 radio fundraiser. This is the radio station that I broadcast my gardening podcast on. It is hosted by Santa Fe Extension Master Gardeners and is the Home Grown New Mexico edition. My show contains info on what we should, could and can do in our veggie garden each month in the Santa Fe area-how to become better organic, sustainable veggie gardeners. If you like my show (or if you have never heard it) it is on KSFR 101.1, from 10:00-10:30 on the last Saturday of each month). The reason I’m promoting this we need you to support KSFR so shows like these can continue.

Please call in this Saturday and pledge something to continue to keep shows like this going and it’s inportant to call in YOUR PLEDGE DURING THE SHOW Call 505-510-KSFR (505-510-5737) so they don’t cancel it. The more people call in to support us, the better.

Here is more info below:

The Garden Journal on KSFR–Saturdays at 10am on KSFR 101.1 and podcasting at KSFR.org

Please support KSFR’s Fall Fund Drive during The Garden Journal on Oct. 8 10am-10:30am. Call 505-510-KSFR (505-510-5737).

You will be supporting KSFR Community-Supported Public Radio and The Garden Journal.

The free air time Home Grown NM receives on KSFR is invaluable! It enhances visibility and our events to the community. Your contribution will help demonstrate that The Garden Journal has an engaged audience and will ensure that the program continues on the air.

Please call in with your donation of any size during our October 8 program between 10 and 10:30.

Pledge Gifts (only available Oct 8 from 10-10:30 during the Garden Journal broadcast, while they last) have been donated from our friends:

• Donate $150 and receive a set of three books on the critical role of insects to the environment: Doug Tallamy’s “Bringing Nature Home” and “The Nature of the environment: Doug Tallamy’s “Bringing Nature Home” and “The Nature of Oaks” and “The Insect Crisis” by Oliver Milman. Retail value $75. Provided by Plants of the Southwest.

• Donate $60 and receive a free $35 membership to Home Grown New Mexico.

• Donate $50 and receive a $25 gift certificate to Agua Fria Nursery.

Call 505-510-KSFR (505-510-5737) on Saturday, Oct. 8 from 10-10:30.



Start your fall garden NOW

There are a surprising number of vegetables suitable for zone 6 fall vegetable planting. Many cool-season vegetables seeds can be planted directly in the garden in August. The goal is to get the seedlings planted outdoors in time to take advantage of the warm days of summer while we still have them.

Most people start their fall gardens too late. It’s hard to think about growing crops for the fall when we are just getting into the main season and are starting to harvest many of our summer crops. I start fall crops inside or direct seed outside in July and by mid-August for a fall garden. When you sow seeds in late August, you may not have enough time to harvest before our first frost sometime in mid-October, depending on the crop, so get your fall crop in now.

What can you grow in August? The key is to choose crops with less days to harvest so you get to harvest before it freezes. For example some radishes are 28 days to harvest (see photo). Look at your package to see how long before you can harvest. You also need to add 10 more days as the days get shorter and crops will take longer to harvest. So for this radish, 28 days plus 10 days equals 38 days to harvest so you would still have enough time to grow them since our first frost date is around Oct 10 (but could be earlier or later).

Another alternative is to go buy plants from a nursery and put them out now.  Buying plants will get you a good head start.

Use row cover over your seedlings outside to protect them when the nights get cold whether planting from seeds or transplanting.

You will notice that I haven’t mentioned any warm season crops. There is generally not enough time before it gets too cold to start more warm season crops.

An where do you put these fall varieties? Space can be a problem and location too. Anywhere you have already harvested creates more space. For instance, I just picked all my beets and cauliflower and have a lot of space right now, so I’m planting more fall crops in those bed. I also harvested garlic so that bed is empty but not for long! I try to grow my fall garden close to the house so I only have to water with a watering can vs a hose that may or may not freeze which is a pain to empty out if it freezes.

Below is a suggested list of what to plant for a fall garden. Some of these are already growing in the summer garden and will be ready to harvest soon like carrots and beets so you must decide if you want more in late fall. Cool season crops are what you should plant for a fall harvest.


Direct sow seeds outdoors:
lettuce (heat tolerant and cool season varieties)
bok choy

How to tell when to pick apricots off your trees

Bumper crop of apricots this year!

Apricot season is here and even though I didn’t get any on my apricot trees this year, many of my friends have offered me lots of them for which I am grateful. So far I’ve made 16 jars of apricot jam, dried a couple of gallons of them and I plan on making a apricot clafouti and an apricot/berry cobbler.

People ask me when they should pick apricots?

Should they wait till they are completely ripe or pick a little earlier. If you wait till they are completely colored up still on the trees, then you will be competing with the birds for them. Apricots are not like cherries where once you pick them, they stop ripening. The good news is you can pick earlier and most of them will continue to ripen if left out on trays in your kitchen. Then as they turn their beautiful apricot color and give to finger pressure, they are ripe and you can store them in a zip lock baggie in the refrigerator and keep adding more to the bag as the rest ripen. Of course they will only last a few days in the refrigerator but this will give you time to get enough of them and think about what to do with them.

Left-all green, 2nd light green-yellow, 3rd one starting to color, 4th one ripe but still needs a day to give to finger pressure

Above is a photo I took of apricots in various stages. The one on the far left is still ALL green and will NEVER ripen so throw those out or compost them. The 2nd one (from left) has a faint light green-yellow color and it will ripen up completely if left out on a counter. The 3rd one (from left) is definitely ripening and turning more yellow and the 4th one is ripe but still a bit hard so I wait till they give to finger pressure-just a touch of give before I use them in a recipe. Now you don’t have to compete with the birds!

The heat is on

I don’t know about you, but I’ve been feeling the heat lately and try to get out early in the morning and sometimes a little in the evening in the veggie garden if it cools down. So my gardening time is limited to when it is cooler. Of course it’s not as hot as where I grew up in Phoenix, AZ (I escaped)! Above is the forecast thru July 28 for Santa Fe. Looks like it’s going to cool down a little.

With this heat wave it is time to water your garden a little extra. Water your garden either first thing in the morning or last thing in the evening in addition to your normal watering. Today is the last day of temps in the 90s-tomorrow is suppose to be 89-still hot for here and then the temps drop to mid 80s. To see if my plants need extra water, I stick my finger in the soil up to my second digit and if it is dry when I pull it out and the soil doesn’t stick, it’s time to water. If it comes out wet, and the soil sticks to it, it still has good moisture. Also a real sign your plants need water is if they start to wilt. I try not to let them wilt. Plants in pots can dry out very quickly so water them 2x/day when it is hot.

One good thing is the tomatoes are just starting to come on. I now have a bowl of them on the kitchen table. I know they won’t set fruit when temps reach 92 degrees but they will keep producing blossoms and will set fruit once the temps cool down. And once they set some fruit, they don’t mind some heat. Some of my early varieties set their fruit in June. That’s why I try to plant so early-this year June 2nd, to give them a chance to set some fruit before the heat really sets in and they get blossom drop. But of course, that means putting them in wall of waters so they can deal with freezing nights that early in the season, but I don’t mind if I can get some tomatoes a little earlier. After all, it’s been since last November since I’ve had some home grown tomatoes. The wait was worth it!

COVID strikes

I’m not looking for sympathy but in case you were wondering why I haven’t’ posted lately or approve comments, it’s because I had been sick with COVID. It lasted 20 days for me and I was sicker than a dog. I took Paxlovid pills and was starting to feel better when I started to feel bad again. Turns out I had a relapse. Hence the 20 days. I had my vaccinations and one booster and was going to get the second booster the week I got sick. I had escaped it for 2.5 years but went to a party in June and wasn’t as good as I should of been, pulling my mask down and pushing it up frequently. Turned out that 17 out of 30 people got COVID from that party. So be careful folks-wear your masks. I know we all are experiencing burnout but the new variations are extremely contagious and you don’t want to get Omicron, whatever version-it’s no picnic (at least for me).

So now that I’m over it, I’m finally returning to the garden (Yay!) and will post what’s up in the garden in July. I got lots to catch up on! Stay tuned.

Are the monsoons here early?

Are the monsoons here early? Historically, in my 28 years here in Santa Fe, the monsoons have traditionally started after July 4th weekend thru the second week of July. But last year and this year the weather people are saying it comes in around June 15th. Did things change? If so, I’m a happy camper cause we really need the moisture.


Plus I can take off the row covers off my tomato cages as the dreaded beet leafhopper should be leaving soon. But I don’t do that with the first rain which we got here yesterday. I wait a few days-like maybe after this weekend if the weather pattern holds up. We got .4″ of rain which is great. 

So if the monsoon pattern doesn’t peter out, and we get a little rain for next week and the monsoon pattern holds, I will be taking the row covers off my tomato plants. I haven’t seen my tomatoes since late May. Row cover is put completely around and over the cages to keep the beet leafhopper from physically getting to the tomato plants and biting the plant-no insecticides work. They transmit a fatal virus-Curly Top Virus (CTV) to tomatoes. One extra step we have to go through to get tomatoes out here in the southwest. The bug either gets suppressed or leaves town when the rains come as it prefers dry, hot windy conditions which we’ve had. Who knows? Maybe they will move to Texas.


Also with the rain, the temperatures should come down and blossom drop will stop too. Tomato blossom drop occurs at 92°F + when it  gets too hot for the plant to set fruit. So if you’ve seen blossoms dropping don’t worry-your tomatoes will continue to make blossoms the whole season. But after it sets fruit, higher temperatures are ok. It’s just during higher heat when they are self-pollinating that they drop their blossoms. They need below 92°F to set the fruit. Another bonus. Ah rain!


What’s up in the veggie garden


Elodie Holmes and I took off all of the wall of waters off 24 tomato plants and put the cages on them and the row cover over them to protect the plants from the beet leafhopper which can transmit Curly Top Virus to the tomato plants and kill them out here in the Southwest. All this in the FRIGGING HORRIBLE WIND. What a challenge! The winds have been horrible all spring-worse than usual and there seems no end in sight. A great big thank you to Elodie to help me on her day off!

Other things I’ve been busy with in the garden this week:

-Planted 7 planted peppers in wall of waters (WOWs). Peppers need protection from the cold nites and the WOWs provide protection. They are a great spring extension but must be taken off when it gets hot, sometime later in June.

-Planted a new dry bean (Sondrio Select-vining type) that Chris Salem gave me to help her grow out. It is hard to find in the US.

-Planted 2 varieties of cowpeas to grow out for William Woys Weaver to help keep his supply of seeds fresh. He is one of the biggest seed savers of rare varieties of seeds in the US. The seeds are Big Red Ripper, a vining variety and Risina del Trasiorfino, a rare bush variety of cowpeas from Italy.

-I built and installed successfully a new drip timer system and it is working well with no leaks. The old drip timer system really needed to be replaced. Plus I finally put on a sediment filter for our hard water out here that will hopefully make all the drip lines last longer (they can get clogged with our hard water). Also put in almost all new drip lines in the garden.

-I’m growing from seed inside the greenhouse all the butternut squash and summer squash seeds as Roly Polys tend to eat the seedlings right when they break ground as they germinate but won’t touch them when they are about 3 inches tall, so this is a way to thwart them.


-I will direct seed cucumber seeds and will put Sluggo Plus on the ground where the seeds will come up to keep the Roly Polys from eating them. The reason I’m starting the squash seedlings inside the greenhouse and not the cukes is because I have way too many cuke seeds to start. Sluggo Plus (not Sluggo) is great for keeping the Roly Polys away.

-I’m going to direct seed some Royal Corona bean seeds outside AFTER I weed the area I want them in.


Black Krim Tomato-an interesting history

Black Krim Tomato_Courtesy of Wiki_By Johnh – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=32303234

One of the best things about growing heirloom tomatoes is sometimes their history. I found the history of some tomatoes is fascinating and when I was at the Farmers Market, I was the first to include the description and history of the tomatoes I sold. People really enjoyed reading about what they were eating and where it was from.

One such tomato is the Black Krim, a favorite for many people. It has a very interesting history as it originated in Ukraine. Black Krim is the Ukrainian word for Crimea. I didn’t know any of this. I knew it was from Russia but not specifically from Ukraine and to be exact, Crimea, which Russia took back in 2014 after invading it before this year’s invasion of Ukraine. I found out this information from Terrior Seeds. To read more on the Black Krim from Terrior Seeds, go here. How relevant to today’s world.

What a surprise! Snow!!

I was pleasantly surprised this morning when I woke up to 4-5 inches of snow. What a relief for the perennial and fruit trees since we haven’t gotten a lot of snow this past winter.

I call this time of year the shoulder season when one day is cold and the next day warm-it’s not quite winter but not quite spring either, hence the name. It seems after today it will warm up a lot outside so it will be a good time to get back in the garden. Snow one day and temps in the 60’s for the next week.

I planted shallot bulbs and peas this past week outside. The shallots were planted in the upstairs garden behind the cold frame and the peas in pots on the deck.

The garlic is coming up nicely from last October but the asparagus hasn’t popped up yet-maybe with this extra moisture I will be seeing asparagus soon. Last year was the first year I got about 12 meals from the asparagus.

Update: Regarding my mouse problem in my cold frame from the previous post

I screwed in the foam window gasket around the lid which was loose as it lost it’s stickiness so the little varmints couldn’t get in thru the cracks and put wire around the corners on the inside in case that was where they were getting in. They didn’t try to eat the foam last year so it seems it’s working.

I put two sacrificial plants in for 3 days to make sure it was mouse proof and it worked. So I went and replanted the rest of the arugula and bok choy back in the cold frame as they did recover inside under lights.

Trouble in the cold frame

I started lettuces from seeds inside under lights with NO heat which I then transplanted in the greenhouse on Feb 3rd. I also planted spinach, arugula and bok choy in the cold frame.

Everything in the greenhouse is doing great. Every nite I flip the winter weight row cover over them to protect them from the freezing nites and flip it off in the day so they get more sunlight. They are all under cages I built to keep mice out-works beautifully.

Unfortunately, in my cold frame, when I uncovered them, I don’t have any cages and mice munched 29 spinach plants (only 1 survived), 8 Bok Choys, and chomped 2 of the Arugula (I guess they didn’t like those much).

I hadn’t gone out in a few days after I planted the spinach/bok choy on Feb 3rd because the days/nites got really cold but that didn’t stop the mice! Only 1 spinach made it-the rest were eaten down to nothing. I still have 8 severely eaten bok choys and all the arugula that I re-dug up and they are back in pony packs inside again under lights to see how many will actually survive. To help with all the shock, I water with seaweed fertilizer and Vit B-1 (for plants). Meanwhile I need to tighten up the lid on the cold frame to hopefully keep them out (this coming week when weather is nicer). I will put out a few sacrificial survivors in about a week to see if the mice still get in and eat them.

Spinach is one of my favorite spring crops but must be eaten before it gets hot or it will bolt. So today I am planting more spinach seeds. Takes about 2 weeks from planting seeds to transplanting the seedlings into pony packs where they grow for another 2 weeks-so 4 weeks from planting seeds to planting outside (with protection). Let’s hope it won’t be a bad year for mice again like two years ago!

Home Grown New Mexico class/events

Some of you may know I’m the chairperson for Home Grown New Mexico, a non-profit organization that is all about becoming more sustainable in our lives. We offer classes and events every year for members and non-members. I want to post this for my gardening friends as they may be interested in these classes. If you are not a member, you may consider joining Home Grown NM as there are significant discounts for the events for members. These are not zoom classes but outdoor classes held around the Santa Fe area. Click on the links below for registering. To find out what else Home Grown NM has been up to, go to their website and scroll around to see what we’ve done in the past. It is a great resource.

2022 CLASS/EVENT SCHEDULE-Below are the classes/events schedule for 2022 with detailed info on each class and REGISTRATION through EVENTBRITE.  SCROLL DOWN FOR LATEST EVENTS!



Tuesday, March 22nd
2 pm to 4 pm
Home Grown New Mexico Seed Exchange-one day only-FREE

WE ARE BACK! This year we have rented the Railyard Conservancy room behind SITE Santa Fe for one day only, across the street from the Farmers Market. It will be inside the room and also outside the room. !0 people at a time will be allowed to enter the room but you can look at the outside tables with seeds also while you wait to get in. The garage doors will be open for air circulation. Masks required. If you are looking for free seeds for your vegetable or flower garden or have seeds to share, start this new gardening season with us at the Santa Fe Seed Exchange. Please bring any seeds you may have to share. It is not necessary but helps keep our seed supply going. Please identify any seeds you are sharing.

Location: Railyard Park classroom 701 Callejon (behind SITE Santa Fe) off Paseo de Peralta • Santa Fe
Fee: FREE for everyone! No sign up-Just show up!


soil class photo


Sunday, June 5th
10 am to 12 pm

Healthy Soils Class

Learn how soil stewardship can increase soil nutrients and increase carbon capture in your backyard-Outside class

Isabelle Jenniches is co-founder of the New Mexico Healthy Soil Working Group, a grassroots alliance that formed in 2018 to pass the state’s Healthy Soil Act. The group’s mission is to support land managers in soil health stewardship while creating favorable government policy and raising active awareness in civil society.

In conversation with long-time gardener Alessandra Haines, Isabelle will demonstrate implementation of the 6 soil health principles in the home garden. We will discuss the many benefits of soil health, including increased water infiltration and retention, greater nutrient density of produce, and improved resilience to the effects of climate change and drought. Masks required.

Instructor: Isabelle Jenniches
Location: 52 Mansion (Alessandra & Steve Haine’s house) • Santa Fe
Fee: $5 for members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering


Space is limited to 25 people



Sunday, June 12th
10 am to 12 pm

Cheesemaking Class-Mozzarella

Learn how to make mozzarella with cow’s milk. Hands-on class.

Mozzarella originally came from southern Italy and was traditionally made from Italian buffalo milk but here in the US we usually use cow’s milk to make mozzarella. Making mozzarella at home seems intimidating, but you won’t believe how easy it is. Once you give it a try, you’ll want to make mozzarella for everything from Caprese salads to pizzas. Come learn how to make mozzarella with Diane! Outside class. Masks required.

Instructor: Diane Pratt
Location: Alessandra and Steve Haines house-52 Mansion Drive • Santa Fe
Fee: $10 for members and $20 non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering

Space is limited to 10 people



Sunday, July 31st
10 am-12 pm

PIZZA  in the yard with maestro Michael Warren

Michael will fire up his home built wood burning pizza oven as well as commercial portable propane pizza ovens and discuss the ins and outs of baking a stellar pie.

This will be a hands on experience featuring various dough formulas including heritage grains. Freshly made sauces and toppings will be discussed.  Practice shaping, topping, baking and eating pizza!

Instructor: Michael Warren
Location: 747 Old Las Vegas Hwy
Fee: $5 for members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering

Space is limited to 10 people




Sunday, August 14th
10 am to 12 pm

Easy to Grow Medicinal Plants for Local Gardens

Join herbalist Dara Saville for this discussion on easily cultivated medicinal plants suited for our climate. We’ll discuss growing conditions, harvesting, and uses for a selection of common healing plants that may already be growing in your garden.

Instructor: Dara Saville (Author of The Ecology of Herbal Medicine)
Location: 56 Coyote Crossing • Santa Fe
Fee: $5, for members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering


Space is limited to 20 people



Sunday, August 28th

First tour 10 am to 11 am-10 people only
Second tour 11 am to 12 pm-10 people only

Luz do Sol Aquaponic Greenhouse Geodome Tour

“Luz do Sol” is a 42-foot geodesic dome in which an Agua Fria neighborhood community is experimenting with growing its own food in a closed-loop aquaponic system.

The dome encloses a 4,000-gallon fish tank and reservoirs for growing plants. The only input is fish food. The water is continuously recycled. The water, enriched with fish waste, is used to feed the plants hydroponically. Up to 18 member households receive weekly harvests of vegetables year-round. Luz do Sol is an experiment in water conservation and self-sufficiency that is fascinating to see.

Tour: Due to COVID, there will be 2 tours in the geodome- one starts at 10 am/second tour starts 11 am with 10 people for each tour. Sign up for only one tour.
Location: 5005 Aqua Fria Park Rd • Santa Fe
Fee: $5, for members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering




Sunday, September 11th
10 am to 12 pm

Heritage Grain Flour Tortillas

Gather up with the Rio Grande Grain team to explore heritage and ancient wholegrain flour tortillas.

We will work with several varieties of heritage and ancient grains including locally grown Sonoran White Wheat, Khorasan (Kamut) and Einkorn. We will also look at various shortening options ranging from olive oil to high quality animal fats. This class will be hands on and everyone will have the opportunity to make and cook tortillas.

Instructors: Rio Grande Grain team
Location: Alessandra and Steve Haines house-52 Mansion Drive • Santa Fe
Fee: $5 for members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering


Space is limited to 15 people



Sunday, September 25th
12 noon to 2 pm

How to Save Your Seeds

Join Master Gardener & Certified Seed School Teacher Diane Pratt in learning about seed saving.

In this workshop, you’ll learn the advantages of locally adapted seeds and how they offer resilience to climate change, how to get started saving seeds, which vegetable seeds are easiest to save, how to know when seeds are ready to collect, and how to store them. Plus, techniques for determining the viability of seeds & why we can’t save seeds from hybrid varieties.

Instructor: Diane Pratt
Location: 56 Coyote Crossing • Santa Fe
Fee: $5 to members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering




Sunday, Oct 2nd
10am to 12 pm

Edible Plant Walking Tour Showing Permaculture Methods

Join Reese Baker on an edible plant walking tour at his property

Come see what is new on Reese’s property! The Bakers live on a small residential lot in central Santa Fe, and every square inch of which is packed to its potential, producing an abundance of fresh fruit, flowers, veggies, berries, and nuts incorporating many Permaculture designs. Perhaps this is due to the fact that Reese owns and manages The Rain Catcher Inc, a full service design/build landscaping company.

Rainwater is collected in above and below ground storage tanks and used for irrigation. Gray water from the house is channeled through Zuni bowls to fruit trees and a constructed wetland that filters the water from their washing machine filling a small pond where beautiful fish swim among vigorous water plants.

They have developed a ‘food forest’ landscape where most of their annual vegetable garden is intermixed with perennials-many of which are native to Northern New Mexico.  All this, plus five happy hens in a homemade coop of recycled materials. A great example of what one can accomplish in a small, city lot!  You will be inspired.

Tour: Reese Baker
Location: 2053 Cam Lado • Santa Fe
Fee: $5 to members/$20 for non-members-to become a member and save money for all our events go to our membership page and pay first before registering


Starting lettuce seedlings

9 lettuce after 4 weeks

Lettuce ready for planting outside after 4 weeks.

I started greens like lettuce, arugula, bok choy and spinach seeds on Jan 18, 2022. That is really early but I want to get them in the greenhouse and cold frame early. These steps would be the same for doing many other crops like chard, cabbage, kale, tomatoes only the seed starting dates will change . Many smaller seeds can be started this way.

seed germination tray

To start seeds I use a germination tray called a ‘20 row seed tray’ (google it to see where you can purchase these online). I use this style of germination trays for smaller seeds that I want to start inside and under lights for a head start in my garden. I cut the trays up into smaller sections but it’s not necessary. Seeds will germinate much faster in these germination trays. If you germinate seeds directly into a bigger pot or a pony pack, it will take much longer. If you want to read about how I plant the seeds in these germination trays go here.

This post is about the steps I do after I’ve germinated the seeds and how I transplant seedlings into pony packs.

2 wash pots

Wash your pony packs (4 pack or 6 pack) if you are reusing them in bleach and water (I don’t measure just a short pour in a sink full of water to disinfect them. I don’t scrub them-just dunk them in the bleach water and then rinse them in clean water (like bartenders) and let them dry. If they are new pots, you can skip this step.

1 dampen seed soil mix

1a Batch 64-Moonshine

Dampen the seed starting mix. If you don’t, the soil will not be damp enough and the seedling could die if it drys out. You want your soil damp but not dripping. I like “Moonshine” soil mix which has many organic nutrients and mycorrhizal in it which gets the seedlings off to a good start. You can buy it at Agua Fria Nursery here in Santa Fe or on Amazon. I use Moonshine for both starting seeds and when transplanting up to bigger pots.

3 clean pots and seedlings

Here the cleaned pots are next to the germination tray ready to transplant. I always keep my packs from previous flower packs until they fall apart. Put seed soil mix in the pony pots. Don’t forget to put some tape on the pony packs to write down which crops are in each pot. It’s also good to keep a written record as well.

5 holes is soil

Put holes in pony packs. I used a pen to make holes. I will put one seedling in each hole.

5 widen holes for bigger roots

Use your finger to widen hole if roots need more room-do not force them in a hole instead make the hole bigger.

handle seedlings by top not the stem

Handling seedling gently by the top leaves not the stem which could get damaged if you squeeze too hard. Put the seedling deep in the hole.The stem should be buried and only the leaves are just above the soil. Tamp down the soil and add a little more soil if needed but do not cover the leaves where new leaves emerge, only the stem. Water them with seaweed and SuperThrive or Vitamin B-12 (for plants not humans)

7 handle seedlings by top not the stem

These seedlings were transplanted 2 weeks later on Feb 3, 2022. One seedling plant per pot section. Don’t over crowd. If you grow this way, you will get bigger plants because they don’t have to compete with other baby plants which are many times really crowded in the packs and root bound. Grow cool hardy greens.

9 lettuce after 4 weeks

Above are the seedlings on Feb 17th. They are ready to plant in the greenhouse and cold frame. It’s still a little too cold at nite (low 20’s) so I will wait a couple of days till the night temperatures are in the high 20’s degrees or higher before planting. I’m a bit of a gambler when trying to plant early as a severe cold night can kill them even in an unheated green house like I have. But I’ve done this before this early and cold-hardy greens can usually tolerate cold temperatures with some help. My goal is to get lettuce big enough to eat by mid-March instead of just starting them. But you can wait till March to start them as well but you want to harvest them before it get hot and they bolt (form seed heads) and get bitter. Most people wait too late to plant while I tend to plant really early which may or may not survive depending on how cold it gets.

Since I am sneaking them so early, they will definitely need winter weight row cover over them every night even in the green house or cold frame. In fact to start, I may put 2 winter weight row covers on them at night. Do not use a bed sheet-it doesn’t offer any protection while row cover will offer 6-8 degrees protection. One winter weight row cover (.90+) will protect down to 24°F and if you see it will be colder, go ahead and throw another row cover on them.  Flip the cover(s) off in the day time and flip back on the plants at night.  As it get warmer above 24°F at night you won’t need 2 row covers. The whole process from planting seeds to transplanting takes about 4 weeks using this method and supplies. Then they grow another 4 weeks in the greenhouse and cold frame and I will start to harvest them. I should start picking lettuce in about another month or sooner. Woo! Hoo!

I also have a video here recording ALL the steps of transplanting.  I made a few mistakes in the video. I said I was planting bok choy but actually I was planting arugula. The seeds were planted Jan 18 and they were transplanted on Feb 2 out of the germination trays into the pony packs in this video. This was my first indoor video which was harder to film than outdoors but you will see the actual steps in progress.

Fall veggie garden tour-2021-Nice to see it when it was in it’s prime!

2021 was a year of abundance in the garden as we had much needed rain from monsoons and almost everything thrived. Here is the fall garden tour that I filmed in September 2021. I held off posting this till now as I like to revisit the garden to remind me of what the garden looked like in it’s glory. Now in January the garden is dead, dead, dead so it’s nice to see it when it was thriving. Something to dream about again!